The Folklore of the Silk Lady: DOAN Atelier Weaves Vietnamese Heritage into Modern Fashion
In an era where Vietnamese creative talent is increasingly gaining global recognition, a new wave of designers is making significant strides in the international fashion arena. Among them, DOAN Atelier stands out, a brand whose philosophy intricately weaves the threads of Vietnamese history with a forward-looking vision. Their recent collection, Nàng Gấm, or Folklore of the Silk Lady, is a profound exploration of traditions passed down through generations, celebrating the enduring beauty and strength of Vietnamese women throughout history, all while highlighting the inherent regality found in labor.
Jennie (Gia Linh) Doan, a distinguished graduate of Seneca Polytechnic’s Fashion Arts program, unveiled her thesis collection last spring. The showcase featured innovative and bold designs that artfully uphold Vietnamese traditions, earning her a prestigious nomination for the Fashion Design Student Award at the recent Canada Arts and Fashion Awards. This recognition underscores the growing influence and talent emerging from Vietnamese designers on the global stage.
EnVi sat down with the sibling duo behind DOAN Atelier, Jennie and Austin Doan, for an exclusive virtual conversation. Their discussion delved into their familial roots, the genesis of their brand, and the rich lore that inspired Nàng Gấm.
The Creative Siblings: A Legacy of Art and Innovation
Jennie and Austin Doan represent a modern embodiment of a multi-generational artistic legacy. Hailing from Vietnam, their family boasts a rich history spanning three generations of musicians and dancers. This artistic upbringing profoundly influenced their individual creative paths. Jennie, with a background in ballet, developed a keen understanding of movement, form, and the expressive power of costume. Austin, who studied traditional music, expanded his artistic horizons to visual mediums, including music videos, short films, and documentaries. This diverse artistic foundation naturally led them to pursue new avenues within the arts when they moved to Toronto for their studies.
"We’ve always been so fascinated with fashion, and I think it makes sense because we’re both in the arts," Austin shared. "We’re both performers ourselves, so we have that kind of connection to costume design." This innate understanding of performance and visual storytelling became a cornerstone for DOAN Atelier.
Jennie’s experience in dance rehearsals, surrounded by the glamour and intricate craftsmanship of theatrical costumes, revealed a strong connection between stage attire and haute couture. The emphasis on structure and how garments interact with the body in dance directly informed her design philosophy. "Garments have to move a certain way and be seen a certain way," Jennie explained, highlighting the structural considerations that are central to DOAN Atelier’s aesthetic.
Weaving History: The Genesis of Nàng Gấm
The inspiration for Nàng Gấm emerged from the sibling’s deep connection to their Vietnamese heritage and the oral traditions of their family. The collection’s title, Folklore of the Silk Lady, is a direct homage to the legends, myths, and tales that shaped their childhood. Jennie’s research focused on the histories of Vietnamese heroines, from the formidable Trưng sisters, 1st-century military commanders who led significant rebellions against Chinese rule, to the resilient maidens in fairytales like Tấm and Cám, often referred to as the Vietnamese Cinderella. Beyond these celebrated figures, the collection also draws from personal narratives, incorporating the stories of resilience and perseverance shared by their grandparents and parents. This personal touch pays tribute to the women who act as the keepers of folklore, ensuring that histories are passed down through the ages.
"I wanted to dive deeper into how women dressed in the past and what they normally wore," Jennie elaborated. "I got inspired by áo dài, our traditional costume, áo yếm, and áo bà ba." Her extensive research into Vietnamese garments explored their regional variations and evolution over time, forming the bedrock of the collection’s authenticity.
Austin, leveraging his experience in documentary filmmaking, led the in-depth research into the historical evolution of Vietnamese womenswear. A significant challenge for Jennie was the delicate balance between maintaining historical accuracy and allowing for creative reinterpretation. This meticulous approach to research and design reflects a growing trend in contemporary fashion to engage with cultural heritage in a meaningful and respectful manner.
At the heart of Nàng Gấm lies silk, Vietnam’s most iconic and traditionally significant fabric. The collection prominently features gấm (heavy silk) and lụa (mulberry silk), underscoring their importance in Vietnamese culture and economy. "When she first pitched this idea, it very much felt like a love letter to silk," Austin remarked. "It not only felt like a love letter to the fabric itself, but to Vietnamese women." This profound connection between the material and its wearers is palpable in every piece, reinterpreting traditional Vietnamese attire through a contemporary, editorial lens.
The Lore Behind Nàng Gấm: A Tapestry of Class, Labor, and Femininity
The collection’s narrative is deeply rooted in the historical tensions between class, labor, and femininity in Vietnam. The striking color palette of black and yellow encapsulates this duality. Black, traditionally worn by rural laborers for its practicality in disguising dirt during agricultural work, represents the working class. In contrast, vibrant yellows, associated with the nobility, symbolize wealth, affluence, and authority. This distinction extended to the fabric itself, with silk being a luxury accessible only to the upper echelons of society.
Nàng Gấm meticulously reinterprets iconic garments and elements from various Vietnamese social classes, regions, and occasions. The collection transitions from the formal elegance of the áo dài to the more everyday silhouettes of the áo yếm, a halterneck undergarment, and the áo bà ba, a long-sleeved blouse and pant set traditionally associated with women in the Mekong Delta.
Looks 2 and 5 exemplify this thoughtful synthesis, presenting contemporary interpretations that retain the timeless, rustic, and intimate beauty characteristic of Vietnamese women. Notably, Look 5, featuring a skirt with a lotus-leaf pattern that flares like a blooming lotus, was prominently featured in the music video for "RUNWAY" by Lady Gaga and Doechii. This inclusion powerfully aligns the motif of Vietnamese femininity and resilience with the song’s theme of empowerment, showcasing the collection’s ability to resonate with a global audience.
The collection also incorporates reimagined accessories, such as the khăn mỏ quạ, a square headscarf worn by rural working women; the nón ba tầm, a flat palm hat favored by the middle to upper classes in the North; the mấn (or khăn đội), a ceremonial wedding headdress; and kiềng, heirloom necklaces crafted from silver or gold. These details add layers of cultural significance and historical depth to each ensemble.
The diversity of attire represented across different regions of Vietnam highlights how dress is intrinsically shaped by place, work, and daily life. Nàng Gấm masterfully blends the utilitarian designs of workwear with the regal silhouettes of ceremonial garb, weaving them into contemporary couture compositions.
Look 1, for instance, ingeniously merges the áo tơi, a rain cloak fashioned from layered palm leaves, with the áo long bào, a gold, dragon-emblazoned robe historically reserved for emperors. This deliberate juxtaposition of garments from vastly different origins underscores the collection’s theme of bridging historical divides and celebrating the multifaceted nature of Vietnamese identity.
The silhouette of the skirt in Look 3 evokes the shape of nơm bắt cá (fish trapping baskets), while cascading yellow silk fringes resemble flowing grains of rice. This imagery powerfully represents generations of agricultural labor and the sustenance it provided, connecting the wearer to the land and the history of its cultivation.
Look 4 pays homage to the ethnic minority communities residing in Vietnam’s mountainous regions. Its dramatic asymmetrical shoulder piece emulates rolling hills and towering peaks, with carved waves depicting the movement of ruộng bậc thang (terraced rice fields). Worn over a backless áo yếm-inspired dress with a daring leg slit and a wide-brimmed nón ba tầm that partially conceals the eyes, this look exudes confidence and allure, embodying the quiet resilience of Vietnamese women.
From Sketch to Silhouette: The Craftsmanship and Dedication
The journey of Nàng Gấm began with Look 4, the initial sketch that served as the collection’s foundational concept. This design was meticulously brought to life, with the original sketch preserved throughout its creation, a testament to the creative process.
The construction of the garments, particularly those involving silk, presented a significant learning curve for Jennie. Working with a limited supply of material, she made a conscious effort to source all silks and fabrics from Vietnam, reinforcing the collection’s commitment to authenticity. This endeavor was a true family affair, with Jennie and Austin’s parents actively involved in sourcing textiles from local markets and artisans in Vietnam before shipping them to Canada. This "village" approach, supported by family, local businesses, and artisans, underscores the collection’s dedication to Vietnamese craftsmanship and heritage.
During the interview, Jennie shared a piece of test fabric used to create the intricate grooved slashes on the shoulder of Look 4. The black canvas revealed hints of yellow silk underneath, accented by delicate embroidery. Each slit and threaded pattern was meticulously handcrafted. Jennie also revealed that she had carefully dissected an áo dài sent by her mother, studying its layers, seams, and structure to gain a deeper understanding of traditional garment construction.
The painstaking attention to detail in each piece reflects the thematic proverb of Nàng Gấm: khó nhọc, sống sau, literally translating to "suffer first, ease later," akin to the English adage "no pain, no gain." This philosophy, deeply ingrained by their parents, resonated profoundly with Jennie as she painstakingly assembled each garment.
This dedication to discipline and intention is evident in Jennie’s design philosophy. "As a designer, I feel like everything we do, we have to have the intention behind it," she stated. "I don’t want to put something in without any meaning – even down to the smallest detail like a button or a seam."
Embracing agricultural motifs, Jennie emphasized the importance of hand labor to "harvest the fruit" of her work. Much like the fishermen, rice harvesters, and weavers of Vietnam, the intensive labor and care invested in the collection are essential for preserving delicate beauty. Through this process, Jennie gained a profound appreciation for the labor of Vietnamese women throughout history and their invaluable contributions to preserving cultural and material traditions.
Nàng Gấm on the Global Stage: A New Era for Vietnamese Talent
The unveiling of Nàng Gấm marks a significant milestone for DOAN Atelier, setting the stage for their continued ascent in the fashion industry. Amidst the demands of school, work, and life, Jennie and Austin are focused on solidifying their presence, expanding their industry connections, and building their team.
Inspired by the Vietnamese designers who have paved the way and their contemporary peers, the siblings aspire to join them in occupying a prominent space on the global stage, representing a burgeoning vision of Vietnamese talent.
During the development and showcase of Nàng Gấm, Jennie and Austin noted a recurring sentiment from impressed observers: "Wow, is this coming from Vietnam?" This reaction, while surprising to them initially, highlighted a broader disconnect. "This is something we could easily have access to; literally, if you go to Bến Thành Market, this silk is so abundant, but it is something so unknown to people elsewhere," Austin remarked.
Vietnam, a major global exporter of textiles, plays a crucial role in the international fashion supply chain, yet its rich legacy of craftsmanship remains largely underrecognized. While specific elements like the tailoring culture of Hội An have recently gained viral traction among tourists, tailoring has always been an integral part of daily life for Vietnamese people, with shops ubiquitous in every neighborhood.
When asked about their aspirations for both Vietnamese and international audiences, Austin articulated, "It’s not just about promoting Vietnamese fabrics and products, but also for them to know that ‘Hey, we’re Vietnamese and we can do this.’ This is something from our country and this is something we can do."
As Jennie and Austin Doan continue to evolve their creative output, DOAN Atelier remains committed to building upon the foundation laid by Nàng Gấm, translating heritage into modern reinterpretations. The brand is actively positioning Vietnam not merely as a production hub, but as a leading force of emerging creative talent, deeply rooted in rich craftsmanship, cultural memory, and innovation.
At the core of DOAN Atelier lies an enduring tribute to Vietnamese women – past and present – whose strength, resilience, and labor continue to shape the very fabric of each creation.
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