In an era witnessing a remarkable surge in global recognition for Vietnamese creatives, a new vanguard of designers is meticulously carving out their niche within the international fashion landscape. At the forefront of this movement is DOAN Atelier, a design house where the echoes of history are not merely preserved but are actively woven into the very fabric of their collections, most notably in their critically acclaimed presentation, Nữ Gấm, translating to Folklore of the Silk Lady. This collection stands as a profound homage to ancestral traditions, a celebration of the enduring beauty and strength embodied by Vietnamese women throughout history, and a powerful reinterpretation of the regal dignity inherent in labor.
Jennie (Gia Linh) Doan, a distinguished alumna of Seneca Polytechnic’s Fashion Arts program, unveiled her graduate collection last spring, presenting a series of innovative and daring ensembles that underscored a deep respect for Vietnamese heritage. The collection’s artistic merit and cultural resonance did not go unnoticed, earning Jennie a prestigious nomination at the recent Canada Arts and Fashion Awards for the Fashion Design Student Award. This recognition underscores the growing influence and sophistication of emerging Vietnamese talent on the global stage.
A recent in-depth conversation with EnVi over Zoom offered an intimate glimpse into the creative minds behind DOAN Atelier: the sibling duo Jennie and Austin Doan. During this exchange, they delved into their shared roots, the genesis of their brand, and the intricate lore that underpins the Nữ Gấm collection, revealing a partnership built on complementary skills and a shared vision.
The Sibling Architects of DOAN Atelier
As siblings and dedicated creative collaborators, Jennie and Austin Doan’s familial bond naturally translates into their professional synergy. Jennie, the visionary designer, is responsible for articulating and constructing each garment with meticulous precision. Austin, acting as the creative director, shapes the overarching narrative and aesthetic of the collections through extensive research and compelling editorial photography.
Hailing from Vietnam, the siblings are inheritors of a rich artistic legacy, with their family boasting three generations of accomplished musicians and dancers. Jennie’s background in ballet and Austin’s studies in traditional music provided them with a unique understanding of movement, form, and performance. Their relocation to Toronto for their studies marked a pivotal moment, prompting them to explore new artistic avenues. Austin broadened his creative scope to encompass visual mediums, producing music videos, short films, and documentaries, while Jennie found her calling in the intricate world of fashion design.
"We’ve always been so fascinated with fashion, and I think it makes sense because we’re both in the arts," Austin shared. "We’re both performers ourselves, and so we have that kind of connection to costume design." This inherent understanding of performance and its visual language significantly influences their approach to fashion, imbuing their creations with a sense of dynamism and narrative depth.
Years of dance rehearsals, witnessing the spectacle of glamorous costumes, and appreciating the intricate craftsmanship behind stage productions provided Jennie with a profound insight into the parallels between theatrical costuming and haute couture. In dance, where the body itself is a primary medium of expression, costumes are designed to enhance movement and convey emotion. Jennie translates this principle into her designs, emphasizing that "garments have to move a certain way and be seen a certain way," a philosophy that forms the bedrock of DOAN Atelier.
Unearthing the Folklore of the Silk Lady
Drawing inspiration from a family steeped in classical art forms and the generational inheritance of craft, Jennie and Austin turned their gaze towards traditional Vietnamese arts, beginning with the cherished stories of their childhood. The collection’s title, Folklore of the Silk Lady, directly references the legends, myths, and tales that shaped their upbringing. Jennie found particular inspiration in the histories of Vietnamese heroines, from the formidable Trưng sisters, who led a rebellion against Han Dynasty rule in the 1st century, to resilient maidens in fairytales like Tấm Cám, often dubbed the Vietnamese Cinderella. Beyond these epic narratives, Jennie also sought to honor the women who, in their everyday lives, acted as keepers of folklore, passing down histories and traditions through generations.
"I wanted to dive deeper into how women dressed in the past and what they normally wore," Jennie explained. "I got inspired by áo dài, our traditional costume, áo yếm, and áo bà ba." Her research delved into the evolution of Vietnamese garments, examining regional variations and their historical progression.
The extensive research into the evolution of Vietnamese womenswear was a cornerstone of the collection, a process significantly informed by Austin’s background in documentary filmmaking. Jennie highlighted a key challenge: maintaining historical accuracy while allowing for creative interpretation. This delicate balance is crucial to respecting the past while forging a contemporary relevance.
Silk, Vietnam’s most prized and historically significant fabric, takes center stage in Nữ Gấm. The collection prominently features gấm (heavy silk) and lụa (mulberry silk), fabrics deeply intertwined with Vietnamese culture and craftsmanship. "When she first pitched this idea, it very much felt like a love letter to silk," Austin remarked. "It not only felt like a love letter to the fabric itself, but to Vietnamese women." This profound reverence for both material and muse is palpable in every piece of Nữ Gấm, which reimagines traditional Vietnamese attire through a contemporary, editorial lens.
The Tapestry of Nữ Gấm: A Narrative of Labor and Legacy
At its core, Nữ Gấm explores the intricate interplay of class, labor, and femininity within Vietnamese society. The collection’s striking color palette employs a deliberate duality of black and yellow, symbolizing the working class and nobility, respectively. Historically, black was the practical choice for rural laborers, chosen for its ability to conceal dirt during strenuous agricultural work. Conversely, the upper echelons of society adorned themselves in vibrant yellows, a hue signifying wealth, affluence, and authority. This sartorial distinction also reflected economic disparities, as silk, a luxurious fabric, was a privilege largely accessible only to those of higher social and economic standing.
The collection meticulously incorporates iconic elements and garments from Vietnamese heritage, representing diverse social classes, regions, and occasions. It transitions seamlessly from the formal elegance of the áo dài to the more utilitarian silhouettes of everyday wear, such as the áo yếm, a halterneck undergarment, and the áo bà ba, a long-sleeved blouse and pant set historically associated with women in the Mekong Delta.
Looks 2 and 5 powerfully exemplify this thematic balance, reinterpreting these traditional garments with a modern sensibility while retaining the timeless, rustic, and intimate beauty characteristic of Vietnamese women. Notably, Look 5 achieved international acclaim when it was featured in Lady Gaga and Doechii’s music video for "RUNWAY." This ensemble, characterized by a lotus-leaf patterned skirt that unfurls like a blooming lotus, masterfully embeds profound cultural imagery within a high-fashion context, aligning the motif of Vietnamese femininity and resilience with the song’s empowering themes of self-confidence.
Further enriching the collection are reimagined accessories such as the khăn mỏ quạ, a square headscarf traditionally worn by rural working women; the nón ba tầm, a flat palm hat favored by middle to upper-class Northerners; the mấn (or khăn đội), a ceremonial wedding headdress; and kiềng, ornate silver or gold necklaces often passed down as cherished heirlooms.
The deliberate inclusion of attire from various Vietnamese regions underscores the diversity of labor and the profound influence of geography, occupation, and daily life on sartorial expression. Nữ Gấm masterfully synthesizes the utilitarian design of workwear with the regal silhouettes of ceremonial garb, interweaving these distinct elements into sophisticated, contemporary couture compositions.
This striking contrast is particularly evident in Look 1, where a long robe draws inspiration from the áo tơi, a practical rain cloak crafted from layered palm leaves, and the áo long bào, a gold, dragon-emblazoned robe historically reserved for emperors. This deliberate juxtaposition of garments from disparate origins creates a powerful visual dialogue about Vietnamese history and identity.
Look 3’s skirt shape emulates that of nơm bắt cá (fish trapping baskets), while cascading yellow silk fringes evoke flowing grains of rice, conjuring imagery of generations of agricultural labor and the sustenance it provided. This design speaks to the fundamental role of farming in Vietnamese culture and economy.
Look 4 pays homage to the ethnic minority communities inhabiting Vietnam’s mountainous regions. Its dramatic asymmetrical shoulder piece is designed to resemble rolling hills and towering peaks. Intricate carved waves across the garment evoke the mesmerizing movement of ruộng bậc thang (terraced rice fields). Worn over a backless áo yếm-inspired dress with a daring leg slit, and a wide-brimmed nón ba tầm that artfully obscures the eyes, this look exudes confidence and allure, capturing the quiet, unyielding resilience of Vietnamese women.
From Conception to Couture: The Art of Creation
Look 4 also holds a special significance as it represents the genesis of Nữ Gấm – the initial sketch from which the entire collection blossomed. This design was the first to be brought to life, with Jennie’s original sketch meticulously preserved throughout its execution.
The construction of this piece proved to be a significant learning experience, with Jennie recounting the inherent challenges of working with silk. Furthermore, she was committed to sourcing all silks and fabrics for the collection exclusively from Vietnam, utilizing a finite supply of these precious materials. The Doan siblings’ family played an instrumental role in the collection’s development, with their parents diligently sourcing textiles from local markets and artisans in Vietnam before shipping them to Canada. This familial support, coupled with the collaboration of local businesses and artisans, embodies a true "it takes a village" ethos, reinforcing the collection’s unwavering commitment to Vietnamese authenticity and craftsmanship.
During the interview, Jennie showcased a piece of test fabric that she had experimented on to achieve the distinctive grooved slashes on the shoulder piece of Look 4. The characteristic yellow silk peeks through from beneath black canvas, interwoven with intricate lines of embroidery, each slit and threaded pattern meticulously executed by hand. Jennie revealed that she had meticulously dissected an áo dài gifted by her mother, studying its layers, seams, and structure to gain a deeper understanding of its construction.
The painstaking level of detail invested in each piece authentically embodies the thematic proverb of Nữ Gấm: khó nhọc, sống sau, which translates literally to "suffer first, ease later," an adage equivalent to the English saying, "no pain, no gain." This philosophy, deeply ingrained in Jennie and Austin by their parents, resonated profoundly with Jennie as she meticulously assembled each garment.
This philosophy of discipline and meticulous care is mirrored in Jennie’s approach to design. "As a designer, I feel like everything we do, we have to have the intention behind it," she stated. "I don’t want to put something in without any meaning – even down to the smallest detail like a button or a seam."
Incorporating agricultural motifs throughout the collection, Jennie underscored the critical importance of hand labor in "harvesting the fruit" of her creative endeavors. Much like the fishermen, rice harvesters, weavers, and countless hardworking Vietnamese individuals, it is precisely this intensive labor and unwavering care that are essential for preserving delicate beauty and cultural heritage. Through the arduous yet rewarding process of creating this collection, Jennie cultivated a profound appreciation for the labor of Vietnamese women throughout history and their invaluable contributions to preserving cultural and material traditions.
Nữ Gấm’s Global Resonance
The successful debut of Nữ Gấm marks a significant milestone for DOAN Atelier, representing merely the beginning of their journey to establish a firm presence in the fashion industry amidst the demanding rhythms of academic pursuits, professional careers, and personal lives. Jennie and Austin are actively focused on deepening their understanding of the fashion world, fostering connections with fellow creatives, and building a robust team.
Deeply inspired by the pioneering Vietnamese designers who paved the way and their contemporary industry peers, the siblings aspire to join them in occupying a prominent space on the global stage, representing a burgeoning vision of Vietnamese talent.
During the development and showcase of Nữ Gấm, Jennie and Austin observed a consistent theme: a palpable sense of surprise and admiration from those who encountered the collection’s exquisite silk, often met with exclamations like, "Wow, is this coming from Vietnam?" Initially taken aback by this sentiment, they reflected that "this is something we could easily have access to; literally, if you go to Bến Thành Market, this silk is so abundant, but it is something so unknown to people elsewhere."
As one of the world’s largest exporters of textiles, Vietnam plays a monumental role in the global fashion supply chain. However, its long and rich legacy of craftsmanship has historically remained underrecognized. While Hoi An tailors have recently gained viral fame on social media among tourists, for many Vietnamese, tailoring culture has always been an integral part of daily life, with tailor shops a common sight on every street corner.
Reflecting on their aspirations for both Vietnamese and international audiences to connect with their future work, Austin shared with EnVi, "It’s not just about promoting Vietnamese fabrics and products, but also for them to know that ‘Hey, we’re Vietnamese, and we can do this.’ This is something from our country, and this is something we can do."
As Jennie and Austin Doan embark on their future creative endeavors, DOAN Atelier continues to build upon the foundational principles established by Nữ Gấm, translating heritage into modern reimagining. The brand remains steadfast in its mission to position Vietnam not merely as a hub of production but as a vanguard of emerging creative talent, a landscape saturated with rich craftsmanship, profound cultural memory, and relentless innovation.
At the heart of DOAN Atelier lies an enduring tribute to Vietnamese women, spanning from the past to the present, whose strength, resilience, and labor continue to shape the very fabric of each meticulously crafted piece.
To stay abreast of DOAN Atelier’s latest creations and ventures, follow them on their official Instagram page.